Every December, masked figures appear on streets across Jamaica — horned devils, towering “Pitchy Patchy” costumes made of rags, a man dressed as a horse, another as a king. This is Jonkonnu, one of the island’s oldest surviving traditions, and most visitors never get to see it up close.
The tradition traces back to the era of slavery, when enslaved people were given a few days off around Christmas. Jonkonnu became a rare outlet — masked performers could parody plantation owners and local authorities without fear of punishment, since the masks hid their identity. What started as quiet rebellion became a full performance tradition, passed down through generations.
Today, Jonkonnu shows up most visibly during the Christmas season, especially in rural parishes where the tradition has stayed strongest. Troupes move through neighborhoods with drumming and dance, and each character has its own role — the “Devil” chases children, “Pitchy Patchy” dances wildly to shed his rag strips, and the “King” and “Queen” lead the procession with more formal, controlled movement.
If you want to see it for yourself, ask locally rather than expecting a fixed schedule — Jonkonnu troupes often perform informally, moving block to block, and the best way to catch one is simply being out in a smaller town during the holiday season.